Manuela Caniato Textile Art

On the first floor of Palazzo Morando, a nice exhibition dedicated to Galtrucco—an iconic name in fabrics and fashion—is taking place. The historical store, originally located in Piazza del Duomo, was renowned across Milan and beyond for its exquisite textiles, catering both to interior design and clothing.

The exhibition aims to educate younger generations on the role fabrics once played in clothing creation before the rise of prêt-à-porter. This ready-to-wear revolution, which gained prominence in the 1970s, completely transformed how fashion was consumed.

Before prêt-à-porter, customers would purchase fabric from textile stores, collaborate with a tailor or dressmaker to select a pattern, and undergo a detailed process of fittings and adjustments. The creation of a bespoke garment could take several weeks, depending on the complexity of the design. For instance, crafting a tailored two-piece women’s suit required more effort than a simple summer dress.

The rise of prêt-à-porter signaled the decline of this artisanal process, replacing it with the convenience of standardized sizing and ready-made garments. Customers can walk into a store, try on a pre-made design, and leave with a new outfit ready to wear. Over time, this shift led to the disappearance of fabric stores and the decline in purchasing textiles for custom tailoring. Today, only a handful of fabric shops remain, as most clothing is mass-produced and ready for immediate use.

Highlights of the Exhibition

The Evening Gown. A striking coral velvet evening dress with a silver inset and a daring backless design. Cut on the bias—a hallmark technique of the era—it elegantly accentuates the body’s contours and flows seamlessly with the wearer’s movements.

Karl Lagerfeld’s Tarantella Dress for Chloé. A testament to Lagerfeld’s collaboration with Galtrucco during his time at Chloé in the 1970s and 1980s. The Tarantella dress captures the spirit of the era and reflects Lagerfeld’s signature style.

Giorgio Armani’s Deconstructed Jacket. An early example of Armani’s revolutionary approach to menswear-inspired tailoring. Crafted with Gastrico fabrics, this jacket embodies his philosophy of deconstruction, redefining the structure of the classic suit.

Illustrations by Brunetta. Brunetta, a celebrated fashion illustrator who collaborated with Galtrucco for decades, contributed significantly to the brand’s visual identity. Her sketches offer a glimpse into the genealogical evolution of fashion and the unique image of Galtrucco’s stores and fabrics.